Wednesday, March 28, 2007

Mindless TV actually Opened my Mind

Yesterday was a long day. I was practically passed out on the couch in front of the boob tube with nothing to watch... except Restaurant Makeover. They were renovating a fish and chips place in my 'hood: Reliable Fish & Chips on Queen St. East, between Logan and Carlaw. I've walked by it a dozen times but never wandered in. Something about it seemed old and not particularly exciting. So I perked right up and stayed glued to the show for the full (and seemingly endless) hour.

Chef Lynn Crawford helped Reliable's chef Martin add some pizzazz to his menu. She did not change a thing about the staple menu items, that is the fish and the chips; although she highly advocated seasoning the chips, a concept Martin found strange and disturbing. On second thought, that was probably just the editor adding 'drama'. Crawford added a lobster roll, which I am dying to taste. It's one of the ultimate sandwiches and I'm curious to see if it's really, really good, with huge, sweet hunks of lobster bursting out of a fresh top-loading bun (very important to get the bun right!) or whether it's just fast food. She also changed the coleslaw. What is so special about coleslaw anyway? Frankly, it's the most unimaginative salad ever: mayo and shredded cabbage and carrots. There is nothing redeeming about cabbage -- said by someone who has an Eastern European heritage. Maybe I'm just jaded from all the mayo-doused salads during recent travels to Eastern Europe, so we'll have to see about Crawford's version. Another new dish on the menu is a Manhattan Clam Chowder.

Tonight is the test. Apparently the Reluctant Chef and I shall have to starve ourselves all day because Crawford also raved about the batter, so it looks like we will have to order almost every item on the menu. Oh, it's a tough job, but I'm volunteering for it!
~~~
I'm back from Reliable and here's my verdict: it's going to be one of my reliable local joints from now on! Sadly, the lobster rolls and clam chowder are nowhere to be found. Owner George says they are too expensive to keep on the menu. But his fried fish more than make up for the absence of these dishes. The batter is unbelievably good. It's very light, like tempura, fried to a perfect golden crispness. They use only the very best ingredients; salmon is wild pacific salmon; shrimp is fresh, delicate and sweet. Also on offer are haddock, halibut, cod, clam strips and calamari. Fries are made from (usually) PEI potatoes -- pure home-made goodness -- and yes, we did have to season them ourselves! Coleslaw... well, what can I say about coleslaw? George's coleslaw was tangy but could have used more carrot and the cabbage was slightly bitter. I'm not sure if it's Crawford's recipe or George's, but it does not change my opinion of this side dish. I'd never come back for slaw anyway. But I'll be back for those sweet, tender shrimp gently fried in the best batter in the city.

Oh, and yes, the new décor is charming.

Thursday, March 15, 2007

Fast Food that's Decidedly Not

I have a perennial tussle with the Reluctant Chef about fast food. He loves it; I hate it. The problem is, every city needs fast-ish food for those occassions when you just don't have time for a full sit-down dinner. Like trying to make it to the movies on time. Or you have 8 o'clock theatre tickets on a work night. You get the picture.

"Why can't you just eat Subway?" Argh! Do I need to list the reasons? In my perfect cityscape there would be nary a Subway, McDonald's, Taco Bell, Pizza Pizza or Burger King.

Starting today, I am on a hunt to uncover every establishment open later than 6 o'clock, serving prepared food that is not just edible, but delectable. So far, I've discovered a few good ones.

DOWNTOWN EAST
The Brick Street Bakery
Their braised lamb sandwich served with chutney on thick slices of fresh, squishy whole wheat bread is out-of-this-world finger-licking-good. There are plenty of other sandwiches (citrus tuna, curry chicken, etc) but this is the ultimate. Daily soups and chilis, and something for your sweet tooth, including a yummy Bakewell tart, lemon tart, chocolate-pecan tart, eccles cake, cookies, and more. Perfect for the Soulpepper crowd, unless you have tickets on a Monday. Winter hours are shorter, unfortunately, closing around 6:30 or 7pm, but it's open later in the summertime. 55 Mill St.

BLOOR/YORKVILLE
MBCo.
I love this little boîte in the lane behind Bloor off Bellair; an import from Montreal. I love that I get a sandwich served with a salad. Where else can you get a lobster & shrimp quesadilla or a sushi tuna "club" sandwich - to go? Their salads are great, especially because they've caught onto the protein trend. They also stock Mighty Tea Leaf Co. teas. It's healthy, it's gorgeous food, and it's so-not-North-American. Another location in the TD Centre and a new one is apparently set to open at Yonge & Summerhill soon. Open until 7pm. 100 Bloor St. W. (in laneway)

Pusateri's
The first part of the store is dedicated to prepared foods: salads, wraps, sandwiches, sushi, mini pizzas, pasta. They make the best ham and cheese on croissant this side of the Atlantic. Grab a (very expensive) cappuccino on your way out. Open until 8pm Mon-Sat except Thursdays and Fridays when the doors stay open until 9pm. Corner of Bay & Yorkville.

LEASIDE / DAVISVILLE
Bread & Butter
Walking through the doors of Bread & Butter is like leaving Toronto and stepping into your grandmother's kitchen in Vienna or Bratislava. They make the city's best veal sandwiches and the strudel is unbelievable. Another favorite dessert is the Rum Baba. Everything is homemade. Kind of like Prague Deli (on Queen W.) but open until 9pm every night except Sunday, when they close at 5pm. 507 Mount Pleasant at Millwood.

I am going to try to keep growing this list with options. Please share your discoveries, and one day, we'll have go-to places all over the city.

Friday, March 9, 2007

b: bewitched

We've been bewitched by b since it dropped into the neighborhood (Queen East and Jarvis). In fact, I can't even remember when it opened because it's become a fact of life around here.

b is a charming, unpretentious, little Italian bar run by the affable Alessandro. This is his dream; when he moved from Italy he worked at a factory but he always wanted to open a bar. His kid's fridge art hangs on the exposed wood pillars, and the whole place is a dedication to Illy. That aside, it's got a very warm yet forward design, with red tile providing a focal point along the entire back wall. Long pebble-topped tables provide most of the seating, with one large booth over which hangs a trendy chandelier.

The food is fantastico! In the morning, you can get a slice of fritatta, yogurt with fruit, or various pastries. The coffee is awesome; solely due to b I've converted from organic Costa Rican to a devotee of Illy. At lunch there is a choice of various wraps, from turkey with artichoke, to salumi and provolone, to baked chicken with couscous and much, much more. There are traditional panini - again it runs the gamut - plus individual pizzas and daily pastas. There is usually a tomato bread salad, mixed greens, bean salad, or other veg available. I can't decide on the best biscotti: lemon, double chocolate or Nutella. Might as well have all three. Hey, that's what the gym is for.

b also stands for Campari! Due to Alessandro alone, I am a Campari-maniac. Technically, I think Campari is best consumed in the hot, salty south of Italy or Croatia. But having it in the middle of winter in 10 below brings back fond memories. Thursdays b stays open until midnight, serving bar snacks (traditional Italian antipasti such as pizzete, marinated veg, etc) with the best Italian cocktails this side of the Atlantic. A few nights ago the Reluctant Chef and I had many libations... ergo the blog post today and not the night of indulgence. The Americano is Campari with soda: simple yet delicious. Another great one is Prosecco with a dash of Campari. And the Camparina is sugar with mashed mint and soda. After about four drinks, the Reluctant Chef practically had to fling me over his shoulder and carry me home. But, there are plenty more interesting cocktails to sample and we intend to visit again... and again.

I was going to end this blog post right here, but alright, I'm giving in to the Reluctant Chef who says I should let you in on the neighborhood secret: brunch is served on Saturdays from 10 to 3. Every meal comes with a small drink; usually it's prosecco with orange juice but sometimes it's a Bloody Mary. There are all manner of delicious cocktails; I always have the prosecco with mixed mashed berries (blueberries, strawberries, blackberries) but am intrigued to try the one with almond milk and Campari. French toast is stuffed with ricotta and served with fresh berries. Pleasantly (but not too) sweet. The ultimate is the 'signore', which is two eggs, prosciutto, tomatoes, topped with basil and baked all together in one dish. Another favorite is coddled eggs with cremini mushrooms, parmesan and toasted Italian bread. I'm sure others have their favorites but somehow I can't move from these items on the menu! They are just too good. As I write this on Friday night, my taste buds are already salivating for breakfast tomorrow. Buon Appetito!

Thursday, March 1, 2007

Life's a Slice at Terroni

Hankering for an authentic, lip-smacking, memory-inducing slice of southern Italy? You're in a little piece of heaven when you walk through the doors of Terroni.

There are three locations: Queen West, Victoria & Queen, and Yonge at Balmoral. I love how each location has a real family feel, furniture and accoutrements so artfully mismatched it matches. The atmosphere is homey and the aromas keep you rooted on line when the place is hopping (don't worry, it moves fast). Whenever I want pizza, it's not pizza I want, it's Terroni.

Our favorite pizzas are Smendozzata (spicy homemade Italian sausauge and gorgonzola: need I say more?), Polentona (with fontina, smoked prosciutto and pine nuts) and the classic Quattro Stagioni that I first tasted at 4am after a night of revelry in Rimini (ok, so it's northern Italy, but so what?). It doesn't matter which pizza you order because they are all fantastic. The dough is always perfectly thin and crisp and topped with excellent fresh ingredients. There is a reason you will see a little sign saying 'no substitutions'. Obey it.

The thing is, it's always an anguishing toss up at Terroni: pizza or pasta? We love the bucatini crazily writhing on our fork with pancetta and pecorino; the homemade parpardelle and tagliatelle are unbelievable, whether you choose to have it with the sausage and oyster mushrooms or bolognese sause, among others; a true penne all'arrabbiata (bless you, Terroni); and a drool-inducing garganelli with gorgonzola, radicchio and walnuts.

Terroni also serves all manner of appetizers, daily mains, and desserts. Try their flourless chocolate torta; yes, I know, everyone's done it, but trust me on this one. I have left the best 'til last in hopes you'll remember to ask for it the minute you walk in: pasta fagiole. It's made only once a week, and believe me, there are weeks when I call every day to see if today's the day. You can call me crazy as you read this, but those of you who've dug your spoon into this delicious beany broth know what I'm talking about.

Every time I walk out Terroni's door, I opine that they don't deliver. Of course, I realize that the quality would be compromised and The Dish in me would never settle for that. How awful would it to have a cooled, soggy pizza arrive at the door? I keep dreaming of ways of cooking en route: portable pizza stones lightweight enough for delivery? I guess Terroni will never be delivery but one can always dream.