Cava

When James Chatto came out with his list of best restaurants to open in 2006, Cava made the top of the list. Now, we'd been to Cava a few times so Chatto's choice jumped out at me. I hadn't given much thought to the 'best of 2006' and decided there was only one thing to do: go back to Cava.

The Reluctant Chef and I were there last week and I'll just say it right upfront: yup, it deserves Chatto's unequivocal approval. The space is spare, simple, with a nod to a traditional Spanish bar with charcuterie hanging about. The attention is all on the food, deservedly so. I think that by now, we've had everything on the menu. Following are some dishes that stand out. (Oops! After reading this entire post, I realize that I've probably listed most of the dishes on the menu! I suppose that speaks for itself.)

The sablefish (black cod) is probably the most outstanding dish on the menu; it simply melts on your tongue and the black rice and escarole is a magnificent pairing. Although this is a restaurant for sharing, this is the one dish everyone should order for him or herself. Clams with chorizo may be a typical dish, but this one is perfect. How can you eat Spanish without having salt cod? Fantastic. A plate of charcuterie is essential. We also have the pinchos of avruga and avocado; these are basically little bruschetta. Avruga sounds sexy but it's simply herring roe. A lovely "common" touch, and what an unusual and fantastic pairing with avocado. The fennel and apple salad is refreshing, spiked by little green picholine olives.

In previous visits, we've tasted the watercress and beet salad, which was also nice and served with almonds - something I wouldn't have thought of. We have had the octopus - really tender; and the swiss chard with pine nuts and currants. Yes, the chef certainly knows how to pair ingredients that perfectly complement each other and bring balance, yet still surprise the palate. I loved the quail because it was so unusual: filled with chicken. Tamals are filled with corn and wild mushrooms. What a way to take up this very common dish a huge, huge notch.

This visit, we order the albondigas (meat balls) with saffron-almond sauce and they turn out to be my favorite meat dish. The sweetbreads are the Reluctant Chef's fav, of course! Lest you think the RC is easy on sweetmeats because he loves them so - it's not true. He does order them everywhere he goes, but his opinion is that Cava's are one of, if not, the best he's had. Venison anticuchos are an Andean skewered meat dish - very tender and we're surprised with the "Spanish" spices (what are they all?) By this time, I can't possibly eat any more, but the RC also manages to devour the entire pork belly with buckwheat noodle and potato and cabbage gratin. Phew! Good thing we didn't order the soup: caldo gallego, which is a thick, heavy lamb stew. Next time.

The wine list is really, really affordable, but follow the namesake and have the Cava! As for dessert I want the dessert tapas, but we order the Ybarra chocolate cake and with just one taste, I mysteriously forget all about being full and self-control flies out the window.

Aside from the food, the best thing about Cava is the service. I remember Avalon and the expert, efficient and haute service. At Cava, things are much more relaxed but no less professional. I can't state enough how absolutely great the wait staff is at Cava.

Many have tried, and many have failed to get the right balance of casual yet high end, inventive yet restrained, exuberant yet polished -- with the menu, the service and the experience -- consistently. That's why Cava was Chatto's choice and why it's going to have a long life on the Toronto restaurant scene. That is, until Chris McDonald decides to re-invent himself again.