Sunday, April 1, 2007

Tappo: A Distillery Hot Spot

In Italian, tappo means cork, a charming name for the stylish new wine bar in the Distillery. But it's also a restaurant and owner Armando Russo has done a great job in combining the two concepts.

Architecturally it's an amazing space. Spacious yet intimate, the rough stone walls reach several stories and old pieces of machinery lend a feeling of history. The bar stretches across the entire north wall, with a mirror that reflects the scene across from it. Speaking of scene, it feels genial and it becomes obvious that many patrons know each other. We too ran into a few people from our building. There is ample space between the bar and the tables for people to gather, mingle and sip wine, whether they are waiting to be seated or not. There is never a feeling that the bar or restaurant are encroaching on each other. Armando and his staff handle the patrons like pros, with warmth and friendliness. It is their effort - the way they set the tone - that makes the atmosphere so intoxicating.

There is a lot of focus on daily specials. Some of the choices that jump out at us are lobster tails with linguine; wild boar with spaetzle; and monkfish saltimboca. The Reluctant Chef is never reluctant when it comes to foie gras; that being the appetizer special, he orders it without hesitation. It is a very generous portion of goose liver on a bed of strawberry risotto. Crispy outside, melted inside - orgasmic. [Or so he says;) I couldn't see beneath the tablecloth!] I have the tricolore salad, which frankly, is a bit lame. First, the portion is ridiculously generous. Second, the presentation is beyond rustic. I am not expecting high falutin' or contrived presentation, but this is actually so disappointing it's funny. I break out in peels of laughter when the waiter comes to take our plates away and asks with a knowing wink, if I've had enough salad. This night we skip the pasta, but there are several on the menu that I'll return for. The rest of the menu is comprised of piatti tipici: all manner of veal, from scalloppini to chop; lamb; steak; seafood. I order the linguine with lobster tails. For $35 I get three tails. The value cannot be beat. But I am not the type to trade value for quality. I would prefer two tails expertly done, rather than one done perfectly and the other two a bit tough. Now, I understand that this may vary according to one's personal palate. The Reluctant Chef enjoys the tougher lobster tail whereas I like mine to melt in my mouth. Other than that, the dish is very good - not exotic, not stunning, not unusual - just well-done typical Italian fare. Reluctant Chef has the wild boar; it is truly delicious and spaetzle just the way I like them. Wine choices abound - a very Italian list, as to be expected.

It's time for dessert and we are almost too full to indulge. Ignoring our stomachs, we capitulate to our watering taste buds and split an almond and ice cream cake. This is a must-have. Decaf coffee is a disappointment; it is thin and tastes a bit like tea, of all things! The waitress shows me the individually-wrapped coffee package so that I know it is not their brewing technique but the head waiter tells her immediately to take it off our bill. By this time, I am ready to leave because my eyes are stinging from some smoke coming from either the kitchen or the fire 'pits' outside the front doors. I have a feeling it is from the kitchen and the doors are propped open to let it out, but it's hard to tell what's happening. No one else seems bothered!

All in all, Tappo has uncorked the secret to a happening place in the up-and-coming Distillery District. Now, if only they can solve the problem of billowing smoke...

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Wow. Gotta say that I have nothing but disdain for this restaurant. As someone who lives in the neighbourhood, I have always been interested in stopping in for a meal. Decided to drop in for a drink tonight to get a feel for the place - Terrible. The music was way too loud and of the CHUM FM variety. The decor may not have been cheap but cheap looking - beveled mirrors on the wall? ech. The most memorable was the two guys who seemed to be friends with someone who was at the very least the matire'd who were offensively loud, especially with their use of profanity. one was even eating with his hands!

I don't give a damn if the food is great - Such a bad experience, I would rather eat at Arby's.

Stay away.