Splendido: Living up to the Name

If one is going to name one's restaurant Spendido, then it had better be darn splendid. Turns out that in its third incarnation, Splendido (Harbord at Spadina) is certainly living up to its name. The very first version of the resto was considered on par with other fine dining in Toronto, but the second saw the lovely dining room crowded with tables, serving pizza and pasta.

Upon entering the restaurant the first thing I notice is that the tables are very f-a-r a-p-a-r-t. Fabulous. Private conversations can be had. Second, the maitre d' doesn't wait a beat before greeting us and showing us to our table. A champagne cart is wheeled to my side, and it's evident this is going to be a wonderful -and expensive- evening.

Chef David Lee serves what I would term a modern French cuisine; not too rich. Fresh ingredients are at the core, whose source is clearly stated on the menu, and there is obviously a partnership with the Cumbrae brand. Our server expounds delightedly about Chef's philosphy (by the way, when did we start addressing chefs like doctors, without 'the'?), which is not to obscure ingredients with additions such as cream. This is why I'm saying that his technique is classical but his approach is modern.

We choose the table d'hote, although the tasting menu appears equally appealing (especially at $130pp; $98 for wines, but more on that later). In fact, I have a difficult time choosing. A triad of amuses bouches appears; the shot of gazpacho making an instant impression. My first course is Chesapeake Bay soft-shell crab, delicate and perfectly crisped, served on a puree of cauliflower. Any doubters as to cauliflower would be shushed. Reluctant Chef starts with the foie gras (Quebec of course), cooked sous-vide so it actually appears like a terrine. It is served on top of a brioche with duck proscuitto that I find just salty enough. I must admit, the poached white asparagus truly tempts me; I suppose I'll just have to return another time. Seconds are chilled organic pea soup with chervil and Parmesan croutons. The flavour is summer-sweet and the colour is so intensely green, the RC jokes it could be food colouring. (Thank goodness the tables are far enough apart that no one can hear.) RC has the seared Hokkaido sea scallop with boudin noir and pork belly. I have no idea why the latter is the ingredient du jour in Toronto but the RC loves it. The sausage is peppery enough to counterpoint the other ingredients. For mains, we have beef tenderloin (supplied by Cumbrae) that is truly succulent. We also have the lamb two ways: saddle and shoulder. This is a fantastically turned out dish, with both parts of the lamb prepared correctly and served with pancetta, truffles and rosemary garlic jus. RC orders sea salt and rosemary french fries, another mainstay on Toronto menus. Yes, they were yummy.

I wish we can have more than one dessert. Cheese would be nice, but I am too full. The RC orders the chocolate soufflé with butter and pecan ice cream. It's perfect: he eats the soufflé while I devour the ice cream! As I sit here writing this, I realize that I have never particularly liked butter-pecan ice cream; does this mean I'm a little bit of a gourmand, or was that ice cream remarkably delicious? Peanut butter truffles are brought out as well.

I should mention that equally delicious is the people gazing: bald lawyer with a Lamborghini and an Asian fetish; young man wooing potential wife material; business men toasting a deal; doctors and professors talking cutting-edge research (okay, I overheard one table!). I'm sure they come as much for the food as the service, which is formal, but friendly, professional and attentive. Apparently owners and staff discuss what it means to be the best restaurant in Toronto on a regular basis. Certainly the staff strive at every turn to make one's visit memorable and absolutely perfect.

One can't be the best restaurant without having the best price tag, I suppose. Our heavenly meal is $110 per person (4 courses; 3 courses is $98). This is perfectly reasonable, except remember to factor in the wines. On this visit, we choose to have various wines by the glass and they are kind enough to offer half-glasses, which is much appreciated by someone my size; I simply cannot have the same amount of liquor as my fellow diners! Our wines are upwards of $30 a glass and so our meal turns out to be the most expensive one in Toronto to date. Mmmmmm. But well worth it.