Nami

The Reluctant Cook has been fussing quite a bit lately when I mention going out for sushi... he is getting tired of all the hyped-up, mediocre sushi out there. I consulted with my friend the Sybarite and she informed me that we have forgotten a most important sushi house.

But of course! It's Nami, quietly tucked away on Adelaide at Church. It is an Establishment in Toronto and has been around for eons (well, in restaurant life). We remember when it opened – it was considered extravagant, lush, heady and daring, because after all, we’re in staid old blancmange Hog Town! It’s still going strong.

With all the recent lavish sushi joint openings, we thought it would be wise to return to the old fave. So we joined the Sybarite and the Connoisseur for a dinner focusing exclusively on sushi – nothing from the robato bar – so if you’re not inclined to raw fish, stop reading here.

The best spot in the house is the sushi bar. Even four can eat and chat comfortably all in a line, because there is ample room to pull back one’s chair without the wait staff banging into you. Nami is a place with no gimmicks. It doesn’t pretend to good food for the ‘right’ crowd. It is supremely fresh raw fish for an epicurean crowd. Some might be slightly taken aback at being served their sushi on the wood paneling of the raw bar, but it is cleaned right in front of you and our companions have never been ill after a visit. So don’t fret! Just relax and enjoy.

Some of the stellar sushi includes the umami – sea urchin to you neophytes. The texture is silky and soft and out of this world. Another succulent sushi is roe with raw quail egg. After trying this, the Reluctant Cook wants the chef to crack raw quail eggs on every sushi coming up! Truly decadent. The mackerel is delicately salty. We also have butterfish, a favorite of the Sybarite's, but I think it had nothing on the mackerel or umami. The yellowfin is lovely; barbecued eel is delish and we all order seconds. Salmon, and BBQ'd salmon skin are as expected. The Reluctant Cook says saltwater eel is one of the best tonight. Giant clam is a bit rubbery but excellent taste – can’t get around the texture. Octopus is yummy and I profusely thank the Sybarite for turning me onto the spicy scallop handroll.

The dots of wasabi nestled under the fish are just right, and the spicy sauce for the tuna and scallop is also perfect. I like a slow-building heat that doesn’t destroy the delicate flavour of raw fish, but some places entirely disguise the fish and wallop you with spice. We won't name any names here, because after all, we'd be dissing one of our fave sushi joints, but the Connoisseur and the Reluctant Chef were comparing notes about a certain sushi chef who has dosed them with extra-hot wasabi on a regular basis. Their taste buds didn't appreciate it!

At Nami the sushi is a taste above the rest. Unless you’re going for a specific crowd, stop trying out various sushi joints and make Nami your regular. That’s our plan.